Rob Adams a Painter's Blog painter's progress

November 4, 2016

Keeping it fresh

One of my greatest concerns is getting stuck in a rut. I can think of nothing worse than churning out the same old but slightly different painting again and again. Commercially this is a very foolish attitude. Looking at successful artists many hit on a winning formula and then stick to it… I just saw a load of fresh stuff by Andy Goldsworthy, ‘eco porn’ the rather cynical half of me mutters. Don’t get me wrong they are attractive and pretty… innocuous even, but the man hasn’t moved on in decades, I would go stark staring mad rearranging autumn leaves into pretty patterns every year for a decade! Indeed that is what we were encouraged to do at college in the 1970’s, find your “realm of concern” and then stick with it. The only way to become a serious artist was to find something really dreary like welding rusty girders together and then do nothing else for forty years. The theory was that if an artist had been doing the same thing for decades they must be doing “important” work. Indeed if you hit 5o years of doing something mindlessly tedious, Bridget Riley springs to mind, then they will give you a bonanza retrospective in the Tate Modern!

I do have some sympathy, I am disturbingly fond of slow tedious work myself it is engrossing in a ‘digging a ten foot hole with a teaspoon’ sort of way. Your troubles melt away as you incrementally conquer a couple of square feet of delicate pen hatching. However for me a large part of being a painter is getting better, being able to do something in a way I couldn’t do before. Inevitably as you get older the degrees of improvement get ever smaller, but that is just relativity at work. When you know almost nothing then big steps up are easy and almost inevitable if you work at it, after forty years or more though each step up the hill becomes ever harder to make.

You can however make improvement a bit more likely with a bit of planning. The simplest way is to try something new. Recently I have set about doing some printing which is something I have never done before. Although it is early days it has already taught me something by the requirement to massively simplify, that is I find proving useful in my oil painting. As I might only have four tones to play with in a lino cut I soon found those tones needed to be very carefully chosen and extremely accurate relative to each other. What, I couldn’t help but wonder, would be the result if I took that much care in setting out an oil painting? The answer is it makes the painting better balanced and more coherent. I then took it a step further and removed most of the colour from my initial block in, using only warm or cool greys. This had the immediate benefit of telling you if your tonal structure is working, with the colour gone it is considerably easier to get the contrasts working properly.

I think this way of working will mean economies as well. On my last outing I mixed a set of three base greys each in a warm or cool version, these can be mixed from left over paint. Also they can be mixed with basic earth colours which are inexpensive, there is not much difference between a student quality yellow ochre and a premium one as the basic ingredients are very cheap.  With oils you can then “drift” colour in afterwards. The only hitch was in a few areas where I wanted a really clean hue I had to wipe off before applying fresh colour. I am setting off on a largish studio picture this week so I will see how the method works on a city scape. For landscapes it gives a unity that I have been struggling to find especially in the greens.

On another subject I have started a new painting group down here in Dorset called The Hardy Monkeys  as I cannot easily get up to London to paint more than once a month. Only the two of us on the first one but I dare say it will grow. I’ll start with our first outing…

 

Corfe Castle, dorset, pen and ink, drawing

The very wonderful Corfe Castle was our first venue. We didn’t have to go far to get  a great view. The light was poor but that is where pen and ink excels.

 

Corfe Castle, Dorset, watercolour, painting, art

A very quick watercolour sketch in my Moleskin, I have been neglecting my sketchbooks of late, so it was good to slap this in without too much planning. 7in by 5in watercolour.

 

Corfe Castle, oil painting, plein air, art

We drove this way and that to see what vies were available. The whole area has some great scenery aside from the dramatic gap and the castle so I will be going back to paint again. With this I blocked in with very muted colour and then added stronger tints by brushing in and mixing on the board. Slightly scary as when you first drop the colour in before brushing it around it looks miles to strong. One result of this method is that it is easier to allow your self room to punch up areas at the end to emphasise. It is all to easy to get into a position where you can’t go brighter, darker or stronger in hue, this approach makes that sort of cul-de-sac less likely. 14in by 10in oils.

 

rawlsbury camp, dorset, landscape, oil painting

This is the wonderful Rawlsbury Camp a bijou promontory fort from the Ironage. This was done from a photo and a watercolour. I used the structure from the photo and then referred to the mood and colour of the watercolour which is below. I didn’t quite stick to my greys approach but laid in with muted tones of greeny bluey grey. It was really interesting to do as more than a little imagination was required! In the end I put away both the photo ref and the watercolour and painted without reference. 16in b y 10in Oils.

 

Rawlsbury Camp, Dorset, watercolour, painting, plein air

Here is the watercolour mostly done on the spot. I didn’t stick exactly to the colour scheme as you can see. 7in by 5in Watercolour.

 

Maiden Castle, watercolour, art, dorset

Earlier the same day I sketched at Maiden castle. Such a strange landscape, I am going to have to find a different approach if I am to do it justice. 7in by 5in Watercolour.

 

Stourhead, oil painting, plein air, Wiltshire, art

An outing to the wonderful Stourhead in Wiltshire. The autumn colours were in full swing. Another new thing I am attempting is to paint plein airs a little larger. I have made myself a new painting rig that allows much larger boards while still being light… a painting kit nerdy post will feature next time! Again I didn’t quite have the courage to lay in completely in greys, all that colour turned my head! I didn’t notice much difference painting on a larger 20in by 16in board, I just used bigger brushes! The image above is cut down to 20in by 14in as I though it made a better composition. Oils.

 

Stourhead, painting, oils, plein air, wiltshire

Mostly used the greys to lay in. This is Stourhead again as the day ended. I had to be very fast as the light was very much on the move. Using almost no colour at first made the lay in very quick and easy and left me plenty of tonal headroom for bright accents. The dark reflection is a little too heavy but I will dry brush it back in a day or so. 14in by 10in Oils.

 

Shroton, oils, painting

At last I bit the bullet and laid in with just warm and cool greys! This is Shroton a village nearby. I had all my greys premixed in little pots. It was very hard to resist dipping into bits of colour but I resisted the temptation. This lay in only took 15 min, which was just as well as it was preparing to rain on me!

 

Shroton, Dorset, oil painting, art, plein air

Here is the finished painting. I intended to take snaps as I worked but got so involved I forgot alas. It was amazingly easy to drop colour in with only a few bits of the sky needing to be wiped back. The watery sunshine came and went until the rain started which was a bonus. 16in by 10in Oils.

That’s it for this post… more autumn to come I hope as the November light is gorgeous.

September 11, 2016

Measuring

Filed under: Dorset,Drawing,How to do,Painting,Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , — Rob Adams @ 1:10 pm

I often see artists vaguely waving their brush at arm’s length when painting and measuring by sliding their thumb down the handle. It looks very good to passers by and perhaps makes a marginal improvement the proportions in their painting. However the picky pedantic bit of me notes that they have not dropped their head onto the shoulder of their outstretched arm or closed one eye. This means they have never learnt how to do measuring and the distances they are checking will be pretty inaccurate.

The very first thing about measuring is what and when should you measure? If it is a bunch of trees or other shrubbery then do we care if a painting has accurate shrubbery in it? You never hear people say, “That’s a pretty good painting, but a pity the clump of rhododendrons is out of proportion…”. So when it comes to hills, mountains, trees and general greenery I just use the diagonal method which is estimating the box the target will fit within and then finding the angle from corner to corner as below.

illustration

Once you have that angle you can scale it any way you wish.

Something that might need a little more accuracy is how the verticals of buildings fit across your picture. For this I use a version of the sight size method. If you hold up your painting board so that it exactly covers the area of your proposed masterpiece, then without moving it nearer or further away slide the whole board downwards  or upwards and you will be able to mark where the verticals divide the picture along the top or bottom of the board. The same can be done with horizontals if you slide the board sideways. I usually only knock in the top and bottom of the box that encloses the structure rather than any internal lines which are usually effected by perspective in any case.

Here is my board covering the composition I want.

Slide up and mark key points.

Once you have those then join up the dots. I am not aiming for perfect accuracy only reasonably correct proportion.

Taking angles, which I have already mentioned, deserves a little more attention. It is not always straight forward to transfer an angle from a brush held against the subject to your canvas. Firstly it is not a bad idea to mark a toe line, just scratch a mark on the ground to set where you will place your feet when you make any measurements. Next, when measuring make your canvas vertical and as near eye level as you can. Transferring an angle to a sloping board is not impossible but much harder! Remember, drop that head to the shoulder to get your eye as near to the line of your fully stretched out arm as possible.

I frequently use angles as a quick check against distance measures, make a box around the bit you want to check the proportion of and if they don’t match then rechecking is required.

If you are doing a really complex scene think about using a thread frame, it looks seriously uncool and everyone will mutter cheat, but it is really no different than measuring piece by piece. You need to hold up the frame so that the right number of squares covers your subject. A trick is to note a left and right feature in your scene so you can reposition the frame easily, or you can even better set it up on a stand. Either way you will need to mark your toeline so you keep your position consistent. Some even go so far as to set an eye point which can just be a pole stuck into the ground coming up to an eye level point.

My thread frame is a very basic 14in by 10in with the threads at inch intervals. I have a larger one with 2 inch threads which I use in the studio, so if I am painting from a reference or sketch I can grid it up and transfer the drawing. Again people feel this is somehow cheating but Durer, Rubens, Rembrandt and Michelangelo all used this method and everyone knows that they are rubbish! One thing you will find is that after a while you develop a sort of internal grid and so need the real thing less and less.

I have managed to print off a few of my linocuts with my new press. So much easier than a barren and wooden spoon!

 

linocut. print, child okeford, dorset

This is my local the Baker Arms in Child Okeford. Just two plates.

 

Kington Magna, linocut, dorset

This is a slightly more stylised one of the church at Kington Magna. The way the lino cuts really lends itself to this sort of treatment. I pushed the boat out with 3 plates on this one. I also did a much more worked out preparatory drawing.

 

Kington Magna, church, linocut, relief print

My new press allows me to print on paper that would be very laborious with a barren. I wanted to use the black key plate and try and get a very different feel with the same image. I added the white by hand, but I could have cut a white block.  Next I am attempting an MDF cut!

 

This is a version of my more monochrome tonal sketch of Dorchester I posted previously. I wanted a more up beat feel. Oil, 16in by 12in.

 

Pinacles, Old Harry, Dorset, Cliffs, oil painting, sea

I went down to the coast to draw Old Harry rocks. By the time I finished drawing the light was almost gone but I couldn’t resist a try at this nearby sea stack. The light went over so quickly I only got a very basic block out done, so this is much more studio than plein air. I ended up making it quite different from both the block in and the photos I took, so this is how it felt in my memory rather than how it actually was! 12in by 12in oils.

 

Old Harry, Poole, Sea stacks, cliffs, sea, pen and ink, drawing, dorset

Here is Old Harry rocks. Sitting with my feet almost dangling over the edge here! As I drew the sun came through and lit the chalk cliffs very dramatically, but I felt it looked better a bit before the sun reached its flu strength. Pen and Ink.

I have a one man show at The Gallery on the Square in Poundbury it rune until the 18th of October 2016.

« Newer PostsOlder Posts »

Powered by WordPress

error: Content is protected !!